Thelma Goth
Seamstress
OUT OF CHARACTER INFORMATION
- Intent: To codify lore for the planet Dahrtag, as well as make Thelma an expert on Dahrtagian fashion.
- Image Credit:
- Zouzou Crystal-Encrusted Evening Gown
- Armstreet "Princess in Exile"
- Etsy
- Torso Creations 2-Piece Apron-Front Sari Caftan w Mirrored and Embroidered Belt
- AliExpress
- DevoreVintage
- Elsa Lanchester in Bride of Frankenstein (1935)
- Babeyond
- Goth Mall
- Thierry Mugler
- Teuta Matoshi
- Andrea Brocca
- Frieda Leopold
- Zyari "Chelsko"
- Canon: N/A
- Permissions: N/A
- Links:
- Media Name: A History of Dahrtagian Women's Fashion
- Format: Holobook
- Distribution: Common
- Length: Medium
- Description: A sewing guide containing descriptions, sewing patterns, and detailed instructions on how to make the clothing worn by Dahrtagian women. It also contains a few passages on the history of clothing and the changing fashions of Dahrtag over the centuries.
- Author: Thelma Goth
- Publisher: Self
- Reception: The book was well received by its niche audience of fashion enthusiasts and tailors. Readers praised the wide variety of styles and techniques included in the guide, as well as the depth of knowledge of the author. The book was banned in some territories because it included post-mortem photos intended to show examples of Dahrtagian burial clothing.
Features full-color holograms showcasing historical examples of surviving garments, as well as reproductions created by Thelma herself.
CONTENT INFORMATION
Pre-Gulag Era (0 ABY - 425 ABY)
During the Pre-Gulag Era, galactic civilization reached a peak never replicated before or since. Virtually everyone enjoyed the benefits of advanced technology, including the people of Dahrtag, more commonly known as Necropolis.
Women of all backgrounds enjoyed unprecedented access to glamor, but practicality was the dominant attribute in fashion. Most clothing was made with synthetic materials which could be manipulated as the wearer or designer saw fit. Traditional Dahrtagian feminine dress, in the form it had existed in for thousands of years, consisted of at least two layers: a foundational garment (usually a chemise or slip made from a thin, soft and breathable material) with a dress or skirt over top of it. Only the foundational garment had direct contact with the body. This was not only practical, but also allowed for more elaborate decoration and the use of fabrics which were harder to clean in the outer gown, which did not require frequent washing.
Nabooian fashions, famous throughout the galaxy, inspired much of the designs. The extravagant gowns worn by the queens of House Naberrie in particular served as a blueprint for formal wear. Artificial silks were woven into luxurious fabrics such as velvet, chiffon, and satin. While precious metals and rare jewels remained prohibitively expensive, realistic dupes were widely available with which women could adorn themselves.
Left to right: Example of an ornate beaded sleeve; reproduction gown with golden girdle; detail of dress with belt decorated with tiny mirrors.
Despite the strong influence of Naboo in virtually all other areas of high fashion, the elaborate hairstyles and headdresses worn by the Naberrie queens were not favored by Dahrtagians, being viewed as impractical. Instead more subdued styles were favored, with a single braid or bun being the extent of effort a Dahrtagian woman would devote to her hair.
The only occasion in which it was deemed acceptable to forego practicality was in the case of burial clothes. Dahrtag is a "tomb world" where most bodies are still buried rather than incinerated. A person could be entombed in a very elaborate costume, including garments that would restrict movement. Examples of burial clothes are typically only preserved in postmortem photography, as it is prohibited by Dahrtagian law to disturb the resting place of the dead.
Gulag Era (425 ABY - 835 ABY)
The impact of the deadly Gulag Plague was felt throughout the galaxy, but on Dahrtag the sense of loss was especially acute. As the death toll skyrocketed, it soon became impossible to keep up with the demand for graves. Many Dahrtagians were forced to forego a traditional burial, instead opting to incinerate the bodies of their loved ones and sprinkle the ashes over a family plot. The impact on the economy also meant that clothing became more expensive and production was limited. Dahrtag eventually closed itself off from the galaxy in a vain attempt to prevent the Plague from spreading, effectively cutting off trade with other worlds.
The social and economic upheaval of these times changed the way Dahrtagians dressed themselves. Clothing had to be made from whatever textiles were locally available. Natural fibers originating from local animals and plants, once thought to be primitive or even barbaric, became more common. Recycled fabrics were also used, though they were considered a luxury and reserved only for special occasions. Designs became simplified, with minimal decoration. As virtually everyone was mourning a loved one that had been taken by the Plague, black and other dark colors were widely used in fashion. Eventually the lines blurred and the original meaning was lost: black became the color most associated with Dahrtag.
Left to right: Formal gown with metallic belt, 500 ABY; Brown dress made of recycled velvet, with studded details, 490 ABY; advertisement for black dress, 777 ABY.
A marked return to tradition was prompted by the uncertainty of the times. Many returned to the Old Ways, seeking protection from the spirits. Religious iconography became a staple of clothing and jewelry, with many pieces holding symbolic significance to the wearer.
It was also during this time that the tradition of "cloaking" began. While both sexes would wear cloaks or capes for warmth, these garments took on a special significance due to their role in betrothal rituals. When a person wanted to propose marriage, the initiating party would present their beloved with a cloak, symbolically placing them under their protection. These betrothal cloaks could be very elaborate, incorporating embellishments, embroidery, or expensive fabrics into their design - all of which were scarce during the Plague Era. It was said that the rarer the materials used in making the cloak, the greater the expression of love - or the wealthier the giver.
The "cocoon coat" would later be created by the famous Dahrtagian fashion designer Chelsko Zyari around 850 ABY. Consisting of fabric draped heavily around the body and fastened at the front, it became a popular alternative to the betrothal cloak, which was seen by some as old fashioned.
Left: Traditional betrothal cloak, 700 ABY. Right: Golden cocoon coat, 889 ABY.
Modern Dahrtagian clothing is dramatically different from that of the past, thanks in part to the end of the Plague and the re-introduction of advanced technologies, but also because of cultural changes.
There was a backlash against the Old Ways which had once been used as a support during the previous era. While some still clung to this religion, others rejected it. Clothing and jewelry worn by these rebels inverted the iconography of the faith or replaced it with occult imagery. The fervor of the rebels has since died down, but both anti- and pro-religious ideas still hold relevance in popular culture.
Modern clothing is seen as decadent, showing more skin and including more provocative and strange designs. Fabric is now commonly cut at an angle so that it has horizontal stretch, allowing it to hug the natural form of the body. The result is draped, sinuous garments. With backless dresses also growing in popularity, the two form a sensuous combination.
Glamor has once again been democratized. While some brands are classified as "luxury" they produce many of the same styles of clothing as more affordable brands. Celebrities provide the primary source of inspiration for the fashion industry, be they actors, musicians, politicians or other public figures. Senator Sycorax Laveaux, the former Mayor of Lamont, is a notable recent influencer. Laveaux in turn was inspired by the Dahrtagian punk music scene, with its dark makeup and dramatic flair.
Left: Actress Zouzou Trill. Right: politician Sycorax Laveaux.
While punks originated as the aforementioned rebels against religious and social norms, their subculture has since become mainstream in the decades since their inception. Modern punks are essentially gloomy romantics detached from life. They are more interested in the afterlife and feel most at home in Dahrtag's vast cemeteries. Many are also intrigued by vampires and may seek to become one, often with little success. Their style avoids warm colors, instead preferring dark or muted shades. Black lace or velvet is an especially popular choice for women, with silver jewelry instead of gold.
That is not to say that modern Dahrtagian fashion is completely devoid of warmth. Reds, yellows, and oranges still regularly appear in stores and on the catwalk. But darkness, along with romance and theatrical elegance, dominate the palette.
Designs by Thelma Goth.
In contrast to earlier eras, hair trends have become increasingly stylized. Gravity-defying, multi-colored, gel-curled bouffants, beehives, and sleek crops are hugely popular. Eyebrows are plucked into thin arches; more extreme examples of the style will remove the natural eyebrow hair entirely and draw on new brows with pencil.
Perhaps more than any other trend of this era, however, is an attitude of individualism. People are tired of looking to others to tell them how to dress. Variety is encouraged, and being unique is in some ways better than being attractive. A willingness to experiment is key to success in modern Dahrtagian fashion.
HISTORICAL INFORMATION
Forced to flee her home spur-of-the-moment, Thelma arrived on Coruscant with nothing more than the clothes on her back. For the first few months she had to blend in, wearing Jedi robes or the casual civilian clothing of a Coruscanti citizen. Once she was no longer required to hide her origins, Thelma made herself new clothes which were more in line with what she was used to wearing back home.
The reactions of the people around her to these clothes inspired her to learn more about the history of fashion on her homeworld. Years later, Thelma completed a book compiling all of her research into this fascinating subject, as well as instructions on how to reproduce the attire of the past.
